Saturday 27 October 2012

Varanasi - Momma Ganga


After Agra and the Taj Mahal we headed to Varanasi via overnight train and steadied ourselves for an assault on all of our senses.

Varanasi is one of the world's oldest cities (1200 BC) and one of Hinduism's 7 holy cities.  Pilgrims come to the ghats (long stretches of stairs leading down to the river's edge) to wash away a lifetime of sins in the sacred waters of the Ganges.  If you are cremated along the banks of the river and your ashes are scattered in the river you can be released from the ongoing cycle of life and birth. 
This is a world class people-watching location as the variety of people here bathing, praying, washing clothes, selling flowers, playing cricket and seeing the sights is fascinating.  We took two boat trips down the Ganges - one at dawn to see the morning prayers, and one at dusk to observe the river worship ceremony performed by 5 holy men.  Floating along the river in the boat was surreal - it really is miles away from home and any other experience we have had on this trip. 

This is a photo of the 'burning ghats' - where Hindu's are cremated.  Wood for the pyre is sold by weight - so the wealthier the family the brighter the fire burns.  It can take up to 24 hours for the cremation to be completed. When the cremation is complete the family scatters ashes in the river amid prayers and blessings.




During our dusk boat ride we all lit small candles and floated them down the river - they twinkled in the night and looked quite magical.  It was a simple way to feel part of the celebration that surrounds the Ganges.

















At dawn we again visited the river via a small wooden row boat to witness the bathing, prayers and washing.  At first it seemed odd to be watching people in their intimate rituals but quickly I realised that this is all part of the collective experience for everyone on the river.  Often holy men, people praying and washing would quietly smile at us as we shared the morning.








The colors on the river were fantastic in the morning light.






























Men and boys prayed and bathed in the river in just small loin cloths/shorts while women immersed themselves in their sari. Everywhere we went we delighted in the beautiful colors of the saris worn by most women in India.


Kenna took this photo and shared a morning smile with this holy man.






































Clothes and sheets were washed in the river and spread to dry on the ghats.  The Ganges river is called Momma Ganga by the locals as it provides a spiritual service to the people as well as provides a functional service for bathing, washing and drinking water.








As we wandered along the edge of the river we observed daily life - cooking in the streets, colorful vegetable markets and kids playing cricket.




































 

Both Chuck and Cole got a chance to try cricket at the park.

























1 comment:

  1. A magical story, thank you. I expect words and pictures don't even come close to your experience and memories. sending deep loving hugs to you all!
    Michelle

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